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When It Goes Wrong

Bread That Tastes Of Nothing Fermented Too Fast To Develop Flavour

Flavour compounds accumulate during fermentation at a rate set by time rather than by rise, so a dough pushed to full volume quickly reaches the right size with none of the taste.

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A loaf can rise perfectly, bake well and taste of almost nothing. Volume and flavour come from different parts of fermentation, and one can be achieved without the other.

Gas and flavour are produced on different schedules

Carbon dioxide is a direct product of yeast metabolism and appears as fast as the yeast can work, which warmth and quantity both accelerate.

Flavour compounds accumulate more slowly, from bacterial activity, enzyme action on starch and protein, and secondary products of the yeast itself.

Pushing the dough to full volume in an hour therefore delivers all of the gas and very little of everything else.

Too much yeast is the usual cause

A heavy dose of yeast reaches full rise quickly, and the baker shapes and bakes on schedule because the dough looks ready.

Reducing the yeast and extending the time produces the same volume by a longer route, during which the flavour compounds actually form.

This is the reason so many recipes now use a small fraction of the yeast that older ones specified, with a correspondingly longer schedule.

Warmth compounds the problem

A warm proving spot speeds fermentation dramatically, and a dough held warm reaches full rise before much has happened chemically.

Cooler fermentation slows gas production more than it slows the enzymatic and bacterial processes, which is why cold retarding improves flavour so noticeably.

Dough temperature is therefore a flavour control as much as a timing control, and a few degrees changes the result substantially.

Salt and enzymes have a part in it

Salt slows fermentation, which extends the time available for flavour development, and an under-salted loaf tastes flat for both reasons at once.

Enzymes in the flour break starch into sugars throughout fermentation, and those sugars feed both the yeast and the browning of the crust.

A fast dough gives them little time to work, which is part of why quickly made bread browns poorly as well as tasting bland.

Preferments concentrate the effect

Fermenting a portion of the flour in advance gives that portion many hours of development, and it carries its flavour into the final dough.

This achieves much of what a long bulk fermentation would while keeping the main dough on a manageable schedule.

The size and the age of that preferment set how pronounced the effect is, which is the variable bakers adjust once the technique is in use.

Questions readers ask

Does a cave mean the bread is underbaked?

No, since it is a structural fault rather than a doneness one, and the loaf is usually baked correctly. Check the internal temperature separately if you are unsure.

Can I still use a loaf with a big cave in it?

Yes, though the slices with the void in them are awkward for sandwiches. Toasting and cutting into smaller pieces makes it a non-issue.

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Moushumi Ghosh
Editor, Bakemens

Moushumi edits Bakemens and has weighed every ingredient she has used since 2016.

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