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Baking Science

Lactic And Acetic Acid Taste Different And Behave Differently

A sourdough culture makes two main acids in a ratio set by hydration, temperature and feeding, and shifting that ratio changes the bread's flavour and its dough handling.

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Sour bread is not simply more or less sour. Two different acids are produced in varying proportion, and they contribute distinct flavours and distinct effects on the dough.

Two acids from the same bacteria

The lactic acid bacteria in a starter produce lactic acid, and many strains also produce acetic acid along with carbon dioxide and ethanol.

Lactic acid is mild, rounded and slightly creamy, the same acid found in yoghurt and other cultured dairy products.

Acetic acid is the acid of vinegar, sharp and volatile, and it dominates the perception of sourness even at low concentrations.

Hydration pushes the balance

A wet, slack starter favours lactic acid production, giving a milder, sweeter culture and a bread with gentle acidity.

A stiff, dry starter shifts production toward acetic acid, which is why traditional firm starters produce noticeably sharper bread.

Bakers who want to move flavour in one direction often change the starter's consistency before changing anything else, because the effect is reliable.

Temperature moves it too

Warm fermentation favours lactic production and fast gas generation, giving a rounder flavour and a quicker rise.

Cool fermentation slows the yeast more than the bacteria and favours acetic production, which is much of why long cold retards produce sharper loaves.

The two variables interact, so a stiff starter kept cool sits at the extreme sour end and a wet warm one at the mild end.

Acid affects the dough as well as the taste

Falling pH tightens gluten initially, which is why a moderately acidic dough feels stronger and holds shape better than a neutral one.

Beyond a point the same acidity, along with the enzymes it activates, degrades gluten and the dough becomes slack, sticky and prone to tearing.

This is why an over-fermented sourdough loses structure suddenly rather than gradually, and why acidity is a variable to manage rather than maximise.

Acidity does more than flavour

Low pH inhibits many spoilage organisms, which is why sourdough breads resist mould longer than commercially yeasted ones of similar composition.

It also affects starch and enzyme behaviour during the bake, which contributes to the different crumb texture of a sourdough loaf.

Rye in particular depends on this, since acidity is what restrains the enzymes that would otherwise leave a rye loaf gummy and unsliceable.

Questions readers ask

Does altitude affect pastry as much as cake?

Much less, since pastry relies on steam and fat rather than on chemical leavening holding a delicate structure. The main effect is faster drying, which can be countered with a slightly wetter dough.

Is there one adjustment that helps most?

Reducing the chemical raising agent is usually the single most effective change for cakes. It directly addresses the over-expansion that causes the collapse.

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Gaurav Bhattacharya
Contributing writer, Bakemens

Gaurav writes about equipment and has opinions about domestic oven thermostats.

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